How can a line of workwear be both stylish and professional? Wool textile enterprises and clothing companies reach a consensus
For many years, woolen fabrics have soft handfeel, bright color and strong recovery. After being made into garments, they are very sturdy and have high heat retention, which is favored by the matching tooling. However, with the development of the industry and the evolution of fashion, higher requirements are placed on the grade and functionality of tooling wool fabrics. How to meet the design needs of the parade distribution equipment, and become the focus of research and development of raw material enterprises. At the seminar on the distribution of wool fabrics and seminars held recently, wool raw materials enterprises and downstream garment enterprises docked and launched a deep dialogue on supply and demand.
Starting from customer needs
China's woolen fabrics are mainly supplied to domestic garment processing, and a large share of them is for the matching tooling business. It provides a large number of stable orders for the processing of woolen fabrics, which strongly supports the stable development of the woolen fabric industry. China National Textile and Apparel Council Peng Yanli, director of the Science and Technology Development Department and president of the China Wool Textile Industry Association, said. In 2018, China's wool fabrics have an annual output of 440 million meters and an export volume of 97.4 million meters. It is the world's largest processing center for wool textile products. After years of development, China's wool spinning is leading in processing, capable of processing various levels of products, and has strong development capabilities, but there are also problems such as market orientation is not very clear. Therefore, demand-oriented, focusing on high-end product research and development, will be the next development direction of the distribution of wool fabrics.
In recent years, with the development of the industry, the functionality of the tooling, especially the health requirements, has become higher and higher, which puts higher standards on the basis of the previous requirements of tooling comfort. Wool itself has many characteristics, such as crease resistance and some natural characteristics. Nowadays, woolen fabrics and even blended fabrics are required to have flame retardant functions.
"As far as I know, in France, the clothes worn by the police are flame-retardant. In addition to flame retardant, antibacterial properties are also in the customer's needs. We have contacted some customers because they will deal with some emergencies on the spot. Therefore, it is required that the tooling must have a flame retardant function. We must take these requirements into consideration when selecting the fabric. In fact, the raw materials companies have more functions and performances than theirs, and our downstream companies propose to customers. The requirements can only be evaluated in a rough way. As for whether these requirements can be met, how long it takes, and what scale is reached, we dont have any heart in mind. So we hope that the R&D personnel of the fabric companies will be in actual operation. Some data, some experience, or what kind of threshold value can be achieved, etc., to communicate in advance, to find a practical combination point, in order to create excellent products." A clothing company official said.
Accumulation and speed are equally important
At present, according to the R&D project, the tooling enterprise will put forward some requirements to the fabric enterprises. According to these requirements, the garment enterprises must first find the materials that meet the requirements. Once the market can't find them, they need the research and development of the fabric enterprises, but they are subject to the constraints of manpower and material resources. Sometimes the R&D process takes a long time. Therefore, clothing companies are very passive among the raw materials companies and customer companies. We have a project. We released the demand to a fabric company in early May. The result is that the sample has not been made yet, and the time is delayed. We are very passive, so we hope that the fabric companies can accumulate more than usual. Take out the product, and more importantly, the speed of cooperation must be fast." A person in charge of the tooling company said.
It is very important for both raw material enterprises and downstream garment enterprises. For example, the experiment and data of mastering the ratio of woolen textiles will be highly competitive. Some enterprises can quickly calculate the matching value for matching data, including strong, Wear-resistance indicators, etc., can measure a lot of data and accumulate. When the user company proposes products with what style, comfort and effect, these companies can respond quickly; while some companies have too few small test varieties. It is very likely that the opportunity is missed." Man Xiangdong, chief engineer of the Research Institute of Jihua Group Co., Ltd. said.
Zheng Wenxiao, deputy director of the marketing department of Jihua Group, said: "At present, our work is mainly divided into task level and R&D level. The R&D level task will be slower, but the task level will be trained quickly. We can't know in advance. Every customer's needs can get information in advance, so we need fabric companies to cooperate with us. After receiving the information, we will first come up with fabrics that meet the needs and help us make samples."
Currently, in terms of woolen fabrics, we have the demand of 'short-frequency fast'. For example, for a bidding project, from obtaining market information, to bidding, to proofing, it is basically 20 days to 50 days. Demand accounts for 80% of our business. We need to find the right fabrics in 20 days, make samples, and complete the test report. This speed and high requirements force the wool fabric companies to exercise rapid response ability. At the moment, this work is already very urgent." Zheng Wenxiao said.
In the future, the core competitiveness of textile companies is fast. The customer's concern is to get cooperation as soon as possible and form an order that will make the company more competitive.
Upstream and downstream communication effective docking
At present, many tooling designers reflect that customer companies are paying more and more attention to corporate culture and characteristics, and they hope that employees will have a sense of pride in wearing work clothes. Enterprises are increasingly demanding tooling, which is a challenge for fabric companies and apparel companies, because only a deep understanding of corporate culture and needs can implement the concept of abstraction, which requires effective communication between upstream and downstream. .
Downstream apparel companies can roughly sort out a catalogue, and fabric companies can conduct targeted research and development according to the catalogue. Peng Yanli proposed a pertinent suggestion.
A designer who has been working on tooling for many years said: "When communicating with suppliers, we often encounter such problems: suppliers will ask, is this the case? In fact, he is asking us for proof. This is because we The description of the demand is not the information he wants, or it may not be clearly described by us. Based on this, we hope that the R&D personnel of the fabric company and our R&D personnel can work more closely together. As a downstream company, we would like to know about the fabric. In the case of research and development, we may be able to get some inspiration by understanding these situations. In fact, product development and product design are closely related to materials, and sometimes even the design inspiration comes from materials. As a designer, you can get from fabrics. Find design inspiration and fit. Nowadays, most of the tooling fabrics we use are blended, because the blended fabrics are more malleable. Another point worth noting is that some designs will use wool-like fabrics. In my opinion, imitation The indicators of the fabric's functionality can even reach a larger space than the blended product. I think like fabrics have a very broad application space. " |
